
Catching and Hiving Swarms
A new colony for free
Bait hives, Collecting swarms, hiving swarms
Basic Assessment: how to take a honeybee swarm and hive it
I once entered a fishing competition. I had fancy baits, and my catch was dismal. A chap on the other side of the pond used soggy lumps of white bread and had a terrific haul. So when catching things, it pays to give them what they want.
A large swarm *
Bait hives
This page is about catching swarms. Bait hives are dummy/lure hives that you put out to catch / lure swarms. Once the swarm has taken up residence, it has to be moved into one of your hives (hiving it). Every so often, a member of the public reports a swarm, so if you can arrive before it moves on, you can have a colony for free.
Swarms move in three ways
Those that take up resident in a spare box in your apiary are your casts (after-swarms), feral bees, or from another beekeeper.
After a swarm leaves one of your hives, it bivouacs close to your apiary.
A swarm bivouacs far, far away from its home apiary.
A beekeeper no longer has ownership once a swarm has left their apiary; it’s free for the taking.
A well-sited bait hive, not too distant from your neighbours, may catch a swarm every year. A good volume is a deep Langstroth or National brood box. It must be positioned in the shade or dappled sunlight and emulate a feral nesting site by having the entrance facing south, low in the hive body, preferably with a cross-section of around 15 square centimetres. An old comb or some propolis placed inside makes them assume it is a suitable home. Alternatively, attract them with a Nasonov swarm lure (bought) or lemongrass. Using a frame of old comb in addition to a Nasonov lure brings no additional benefit.
Bees prefer to nest out of the reach of bears, so it is best to build a platform in a tree 3–4 meters up. This is a dangerous undertaking, so putting a hive on a flat roof is a sensible compromise. It is handy to prevent them from building wild comb by putting frames inside the bait hive. If you don’t do this, or fail to remove the bees in a timely fashion, they build comb attached to the roof. Manage this by cutting it out and tying it into empty frames supported by string or elastic bands.
Collecting swarms
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A swarm on a post can be encouraged to move up into a box using smoke. If the swarm is in a hedge, cut away branches underneath. Hold your cardboard box close to it (or use a traditional straw basket called a skep). Shake, smoke, and brush the bees in. Alternatively, cut out the small branches on which the bees are clustering and put them in a nuc to be retrieved later. The collection box needs to be about Depth 30-40 x Width 25 × 25 cm. It pays to have a second, larger one. Putting a swarm lure in the box can be very rewarding. Moreover, a frame of uncapped brood placed next to the swarm can help. No two swarms are alike, and so will test your ingenuity.
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It is easiest to suck up the bees with a bee vacuum. Some vacuums reach a height of up to 7 metres. I’ve made one using a leaf blower; it is so cumbersome that I could be Ghost Buster. The obvious alternative is to collect them whilst up a long ladder. This is very dangerous. A safer alternative is cutting almost through the branch so it can be angled down (with permission from the owner). Otherwise, attempt a long drop. Of course, you will still have to climb to attach a rope and cut out branches underneath, but it is safer than catching the swarm up a ladder. Knowing where the swarm will land is surprisingly tricky, even with your line/rope dangling down. I lie on the ground and look up. Stand beside the sheet so that the bees do not flutter over you like confetti. One or two cam buckle straps attached to the branch enable a good shake. The technique is to pull down and suddenly stop. But branches prefer to spring up and down. If the bees returned to their perch after the shake, the queen was not with them. Try again. Having gained experience, the second shake will be easier, despite the swarm being less well-circumscribed. This technique works for a moderately high swarm (several meters) and is successful because many clustered are in a reduced energy state: A gradient from 18 to 35 °C in the core to 15 °C in the mantle. Bees need to reach a thoracic temperature of 36–38 °C before they are ready to fly efficiently.
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To collect a swarm whilst up a ladder takes one hand to shake the branch and another to hold the box, so you don’t have a hand to hold on to the ladder. Consider this: the shake must be vigorous. A swarm can be heavy, 4 kg. If you use climber’s gear, that’s okay; otherwise, you can decide whether to take risks. A swarm isn’t worth becoming brain-dead or paraplegic. Falls from a height are the most common cause of fatal head injury.
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Swarms can be tricky. For example, if a swarm has recently lodged in a chimney. Try lighting a smokey fire. Hopefully, the swarm will fly out and land somewhere more convenient. Otherwise, if retrieval is impossible it is a job for the Borough Council pest control folk. A cut-out is when an established colony is retrieved from an attic, wall or under the floor. If an established colony in a building is killed or removed, it is essential to seal the entrance so the nest does not act as a reservoir of disease.
Homing and Hiving
Homing
If necessary, place an upturned box beside the pile of bees, with one side elevated by a twig so that they crawl in.
Have a cup of tea. Then you have two options. Return in the evening when all the bees are in the box, or grab and run and expect some lost souls to fly around the site for a few days. To contain the bees, lift the sheet's sides and tie them together with string. On the journey home, check they do not fan loudly, as this signifies that they are overheating; if they do, use a water sprayer.
Hiving Options
If you can catch a queen and mark her and the weather is warm, it is fun to shake the bees on a ramp covered with a sheet. The bees will innately walk up to the entrance. Once they are in the hive, open it and insert a queen excluder (QE) above the floor.
To save yourself some hassle, insert the QE in first and shake them straight into the hive/nuc using an empty brood box as a funnel, like a shook swarm. The problem with using a box like this is that many bees cling to the walls and climb up rather than down. A rim of duct tape sprayed with water stops this.
Some people shake the bees into an empty brood box (called an eke in this situation). Once they stay inside, place the new brood box plus empty frames on top. After 10 minutes, the bees will have moved up to the brood box, and the eke can be removed.
Queen excluder
If you caught the swarm within 3 km of your apiary, put a QE above the floor so they do not abscond to that lovely home the scouts found. I recommend you leave the QE in place until they have at least one frame of brood. . Bees don’t like empty boxes they haven’t chosen. Some brave beekers say leave the QE in for 24 hours. I’ve tried it three times, and all the bees eloped — a finding that must be approaching statistical significance.
Some fear leaving a queen excluder under the brood box will strip pollen off the bees’ legs. The stripping is incomplete. If necessary, they increase their foraging, so it’s not a problem in the short term.
The queen usually starts to lay within 48 hours, but occasionally takes longer.
If the swarm's departure was delayed beyond eight days, the virgin(s) may have killed the old queen. So, as a compromise, if there are no eggs after several days, remove the QE so that a virgin can go to mate.
Rarely, a swarm does not contain a queen.
A newly mated queen may take up to 5 weeks to start laying. Wait a fortnight. If you’ve run out of patience, reassure yourself using a test frame.
Casts
If there are several little lumps of bees in a tree or bush, these are probably secondary swarms headed by virgins. They can be shaken into a single box, and the queens left to fight. If a swarm taken has taken up residence somewhere and the comb does not contain eggs, the queen may be going out to mate, so if you move her colony, she will get lost.
Feed
If there is no honey flow, after 1–2 days, give a substantial swarm 4 kg of sugar as syrup. Use a thin strength to emulate nectar. But they don’t need stimulation, and bees dilute honey to 50% for personal consumption, so a mixture more concentrated than thin won’t hurt them. Swarms draw comb rapidly; most of a box in one week.
Quarantine
If you can, quarantine the swarm for several weeks until you are sure it is disease-free.
Varroa
A swarm flies off with 35% of the mites from the home colony. So, immediately (within 9 days) treat a swarm with oxalic acid. Alternatively, use a frame of unsealed brood. Once the brood in this comb is sealed, it will be full of varroa. Freeze it overnight and return it to the hive.
Next, prevent swarms (so you don’t have to catch them). Abridged version.
Page 5.