Innovations

To do better

Read time 15 minutes

Novel ideas

Each beekeeper develops their way of doing things through trial and error or by following the books. Here is a list of things I’ve discovered:

Queenless Movement Behaviour — a rarely recognised sign

Closing poly hives without squashing bees

Brood timetablea graphic way of presenting queen replacement and brood development

Injun Joe effectbees get lost when their normal entrance is closed

Hive toleater makes hive tools disappear

How to prevent bees from chewing polystyrene

Mite drop after oxalic acid sublimation

Marking table and Every board etc. — things I’ve made — see below:


Equipment

Paradise Honey Hives are complete in themselves but can be embellished. I’ve enjoyed making standard equipment like ekes despite no training apart from being taught how to use carpentry tools when I was nine. So, if you fancy inventing a gadget or making a standard kit, have a go! But it will be tricky without a cutting table, bench press drill and corner clamps.

Ekes

These rectangular frames match the dimensions of the top/bottom of a box. Their depth determines their usage. They do not match a bee space, so the bees tend to fill the area with burr comb and drone brood. Using a wooden / ply former may be good enough for making bits for other hives, but it is insufficient for the tolerances required for a Beebox hive (because of the rebate). So repetitively hold the eke against a hive body.

  • corner clamps

    Corner clamp

  • Corner of an eke

    This is 40mm deep, okay for Apiguard

  • Finished eke

    The result is difficult to see! Check it is level by frequently by presenting it to the box.

Crown Board

lid of crown  board half way in box

It consists of two parts. The lower one is the board, and the upper one is for access, observation, and to stop the bees from climbing out. The inner portion must fit precisely: 3 mm smaller than the inside dimensions of the box. The frame runners poke out, so it must be pushed in to position from below.

Kitchen whisk  which can be used to assist sugar dissolving sugar.

Whisk

I’ve made a whisk extension. It flies around very eccentrically, but when used with a bucket of sugar and water, it will bash the last few crystals into solution.
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Queen - push on marking cage

The dirty cage in the foreground is a modified Chinese cage.

I have shortened the prongs so that it is suited to plastic frames. The nylon thread makes it easy to see the queen.
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Marking Table

I need three hands to mark a queen. This is my third. It is like a bridge. The upper surface of the bridge has four 4 cm vertical spikes (clothes hanger wires). The frame that contains the queen is placed on top. The queen is trapped, and I can take my time marking her.

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Fence

fence around top box to prevent the queen getting lost

The “fence” fits around the box and prevents the queen and baby bees from getting lost when shaken them in to a box. After a while, the bees that end up on the rim will find their way into the hive body. However, in cool weather, they stay put and form huddles. The design could be improved. It would be better if the walls sloped down to the box. When shaking lots of bees, it is better to use a brood box as a funnel.

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There are lots of bees on top of the table when I tried to throw them into a single box

My first design is no good for shaking in plenty of bees, they are prone to huddle against the walls. My modified version has sloping walls covered with PVC.

Taranov board

Taranov board, the bees are dumped on the ramp and the flying bees jump over the gap but the queen and young bees shelter under the end of the board

Used to separate young bees along with the queen. The board tip needs to be at least 400 mm off the ground.
How it works for swarm control

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Everyboard

Everyboard manipulation board
Everyboard with slider
Showing the protruding part of the disc

This can be used as a Horsley, Brown (Beekeeping - a Seasonal Guide p59), or Cloake board, for uniting colonies and clearing bees and, with a fourth entrance, as a Snelgrove board. I have made several designs.

Frame Fondant Feeder

I have attached two frames to feed fondant without repeatedly opening the hive.

Umbrella

Occasionally, I’m desperate to inspect a colony in the rain, and sadly, I don’t have anyone to hold an umbrella.

My helping hand is a black pipe attached to the hive stand. The pipe supports the umbrella pole.

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Landing Board

White landing board
Purple hive landing board

It is small but helpful for seeing what they are doing at the entrance.

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Hive Stands

wooden hive stand

Everyone has their version, and this is mine. Joists are readily available in skips. None of my hives containing bees have blown over. However, stacks of empty boxes or combs have fallen. If a high stack falls, a box invariably breaks.

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Hives wrapped in plastic have fallen over

Hive weighing scales

Rather than try to assess the weight of a hive by hefting, it is lovely to have a more objective measurement. I have attempted to do it using the dynamics apparent in this diagram. The problem was that at a particular force, the stand tipped up, and my measurements were inexact. But if your apiary is level and your hives are near the earth, give it a go.

The spring-balance type weighing scale is attached via a wire to a board under the hive via a pulley.

rough illustration of a hive weighing system
A frame style hivescales

A frame weighing scale. I could not get consistent results.

weighing device for hive
upper view of hive scales

A friend made this apparatus.

shieve shield for nuc. Protection against wasps.

Hive Shield

Here is a prototype, viewed from behind and made to fit a nuc. It prevents wasps from entering the colony. I have seen a wasp enter, but it did not come out. Bees buzz confused by the holes on the outer aspect, and the guards hang around there. The bees soon learn to use the entrance at one side.

Wasp deterrent

This device is a good wasp deterrent. It fits snugly in the entrance. The bees fly out of the ends of the electric trunking, but the wasps are stumped. Its disadvantage is that the bees find it hard work ventilating the hive.Thorne sells what appears to be a similar device for a reasonable price.

Nicot Cupkit

Cupkit  with part of it cut away with a view to it being used as a press on device

I have tried my reversed version, and the Q refused to lay. A potential problem with the setup is that the workers may release her by digging under the cage.

For queen rearing without having to handle the queen.

I have cut out one side of the cage. The cage is usually orientated the other way around, with the entrance of the cups facing out, so the queen is trapped.

The queen lays in the central brown cup
cups containing queen cells

Another method of getting larvae in to cups is grafting. Kamon Reynolds demonstrates the method on YouTube

Images show the cups in which queens lay their eggs and a frame with sealed QC in cups.

End of Beekeeping section

Page BK 9.