Knowledge quiz
Some people will disagree with my answers. It is said that if you ask three beekeepers the same question, you will get three different answers, and they will all be correct.
For example this is a photo of the: sun, sunrise, sunset, either, both or all three.
There are 35 questions in no particular order.
I recommend you commit your answers to the paper to learn the most from this exercise. The questions are taxing, but if you can manage them, you should know enough to be a beekeeper and pass the BBKA Basic Assessment with a credit.
1. In a bee’s life cycle, each caste spends a different amount of time as an open and sealed brood. How long?
2. How often should a beekeeper inspect their colonies? Why that timing?
3. If you moved the queen to a new position in a nuc, mostly what aged bees must she have with her? Mostly sealed or open brood? How might you reduce the number of bees that return to the home hive?
4. What is the earliest week in the year that you can be confident that a virgin queen will get mated?
5. If you find swarm cells, what things can you change in the balance in the hive to stop them from swarming? Cite an example as to how you would do this.
6. On each inspection, what should a beekeeper look for? When you write your notes, what should you record?
7. If the colony is building up, what sort of ratio between open and sealed brood will you see?
8. Are you struggling to answer these questions? Go back and revise!!
9. How can you check whether a colony with no young larvae is queenless?
10. How can you stop casts?
11. If a queen died four days ago, how long does it take a colony to raise a new queen?
12. how long will it be before the new queen starts laying after colony swarms?
13. When might a colony run out of stores?
14. What things can start the bees robbing?
15. Why is it helpful to put a spot of paint on the queen’s thorax?
16. How long does it take from when a drone egg is laid to him emerging? Why is this significant?
17. When a queen has been introduced in a cage, when is it sensible to inspect the colony? Why / why not?
18. What could you do to encourage supersedure?
19. How will it affect the colony If there is a 3-week period of freezing weather starting in the first week of April?
20. If you clip a Qs wing, how often do you need to inspect the colony?
21. What are the main approaches to managing varroa? When can they be given/used? What is the treatment period? And wash out, period?
22. What methods ways are there to move bees onto fresh frames and foundation?
23. What factors does a colony need to swarm?
24. How does an artificial swarm prevent swarming? How far apart do the hives need to be? Why is it a poor manipulation?
25. Why should Apiguard only be used when the temperature is greater or equal to 15 degrees C?
26. Why is it essential to see eggs? On appreciating this, what can you do if a colony has swarm cells but can not find the queen?
27. What forms can it take When it comes to feeding bees? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each one?
28. A beekeeper’s chief objective is to maximise bee forager numbers during the summer honey flow. When must these bees be conceived?
29. What should you do if you find QC and one or more queens have emerged?
30. Once a colony has built up with eight frames (wooden hive) and ten frames (polyhive), in other words, a full bottom box with an overflow of bees into the top box, then you might do a vertical split to pre-empt swarming. How would you do this?
31. Describe how you would prepare a hive to over-winter.
32. How could you monitor varroa levels.? When is treatment obligatory?
33. What should you do if some brood in worker cells develops a domed top?
34. What are the signs of bee diseases? Write a list.
35. You a Demaree on 29/4 and the colony swarms on 20/5. There are 4 QC in the top super from which the queens have emerged. There is a little worker and drone brood. What has happened?
Answers below
Additional reading
Basic Assessment: be aware of various web-based resources relating to beekeeping, like the BBKA and Beebase.
Beekeeping, a seasonal guide by Ron Brown - fine English, as lengthy as I am pithy
Haynes bee manual by Claire and Adrian Waring: Glossy simple starter for standard wood & wax beekeeping.
David Cushman - comprehensive but dated format; don’t be put off
The apiarist - David Evans website/blog - detailed.
Beekeeping forum - Advice from fellow beekers
National beekeeping unit - Beebase - many guides
YouTube has 82,600,000 bee-related videos, forcing you to watch 165,200,000 advertisements would take about 31,443 years.
Starting Right with Bees standard advice from NBU
PerfectBee - for a racey course on beekeeping. I don’t always agree with their facts, and sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate whether he/she is writing about wild or honey bees.
Quiz answers
In a bee’s life cycle, each caste spends a different amount of time as unsealed and sealed brood. How long? Open queen 8, worker 9, Drone10, sealed 8,12,14.
How often should you do routine inspections? The queen cell is closed sometime between the eighth and ninth day. These timings are guides only; in reality, there is some variability. The queen will swarm on the 9th. So inspections could be done on the 8th. 7th is safer and fits many people’s lifestyles.
If you moved the queen to a new position in a Nuc, what aged bees must she have with her? Mostly sealed or open brood? How can you prevent all the fliers from returning to their previous hive site?
She needs young bees to look after her; these will not fly back to the home hive. Sealed brood is best; otherwise, there may be insufficient workers to care for open brood. New bees will soon bolster the colony. Stuffing the entrance with grass, shutting them in for a few days (poly nuc in the shade), pointing their entrance in a different direction, and putting a leafy branch over the entrance may help. If you like, move the nuc away from your apiary for three weeks,
What is the earliest week in the year that you are confident that a virgin queen will get mated (in the South of England)? It depends on when there are sufficient drones and the weather. Drones are not a priority in March when the winter bees are using the last of their energy. The days are lengthening, so the colony is expanding rapidly. But some drone brood will arise in March, especially if a frame of Drone foundation is inserted in early March, e.g., on March 8, the drones will be mature (3 + 10 +14 + 14 days maturing, including 3+ days orientating) in about 37 to 41 days, so some drones will be ready to mate on April 18. Hopefully, your neighbours will have done the same thing. If a queen takes 16+6 = 22 days until she is ready to mate, then 22 before April 18 = March 27. So a queen who is conceived in early April should mate, okay? Mid-April is safer. Wait until May if you can! It all depends on the weather.
If you find queen cells, what things can you change in the balance in the hive to stop swarming? How would you do this?
Have a cup of tea and cake. Don’t panic,
Calmly inspect the colony using a checklist. In particular, look for a cut-off in larval age (which is difficult), the number, and age of QC and the queen.
Separate one of these from the rest - brood, foragers, queen, for example:
A split,remove the queen elsewhere in a Nuc that contains plenty of young bees and mostly sealed brood. Reducing the residual QCs to one in the home colony is prudent, but some say it is unnecessary. Some say reduce the queen cells in the swarm, but others say it is unnecessary.
A popular method is an artificial swarm; remove the brood frames plus bees into a new hive situated at least one metre from the home position and reduce the QC to one. The queen goes to the home position, and the flyers automatically join her. The home position gets the supers. The queen must have comb to lay in as foragers can barely draw comb let alone feed brood.
A Taranov board or vertical Artificial Swarm are other options.
What should a beekeeper look for during each inspection? When you write your notes, what should you record? Chiefly eggs, whether the queen was seen, amount of brood, absence/presence of QC, stores, space and any signs of disease
If the colony is building up, what sort of ratio between unsealed and sealed brood will there be? Worker brood consists of 9 days as open and 12 days as sealed brood. So when there is no expansion, the ratio will be 3:4. So a ratio of 4:4 would suggest the queen’s rate of lay has increased. Sealed brood stands out much more than unsealed, so the apparent ratio can be poorly representative unless you have eagle eyes.
Yes or no!
How can you check whether a colony with no young larvae is queen-less? Use a “test frame”, a frame containing eggs. Inspect after four days; if charged cups develop, the colony is queenless. If QC do not develop, there is a high probability that the colony is queen-right.
How can you stop casts? Destroy all the QC except one. Manipulate the colony so they do not produce any more QC. If a queen died four days ago, how long does the colony take to raise a new queen? Start with day 5, brood. Three days to be sealed, and she emerges after eight days, so 11 days.
If a queen died four days ago, how long does it take before a new Q starts laying? Three days as open cell, eight days as closed, 9 - 10 mating and preparing to lay. So around 21 days. But sometimes a couple of days sooner, rarely weeks later.
After colony swarms, how long will it take before the home colony contains eggs? Seventeen days, more or less.
When might a colony run out of stores?
Anytime, but particularly in the spring when colonies rapidly expand, in the June gap, especially if a spring harvest was removed.
What things can start the bees robbing or make it more likely? Leaving any syrup, comb or honey exposed, leaving a gap between boxes, opening a hive, and having hives close to one another, a dearth very much increases the risk. Italian bees are more likely to rob (or so I’ve heard).
Why is it helpful to put a spot of paint on the queen? All the better to see her with. The disadvantage is that there is a tendency not to look for queens but just the dot.
How long does it take from when a drone egg is laid to him emerging? Why is this significant?
24 days. Varroa preferentially enters drone brood as they can produce one more mature varroa compared with worker brood. Using two frames of drone comb can reduce mite load by 50% in a colony with a low varroa level. Once the drone comb is sealed, the comb is put in the freezer overnight and returned to the hive. The bees empty the dead pupae ready for the queen to lay and have a great protein meal.
When a queen has been introduced in a cage, when is it sensible to inspect it? Why / why not? After 2 - 7 days, opening the tab on the travel cage enables the bees to eat through the candy. After 48 hours, check that she has left the cage. After this, some beekeepers say you should delay inspecting beyond ten days to reduce the chance of rejection. Others say to check for signs of supersedure. I reckon you an inspection after five. Seven would be a compromise.
What could you do to encourage supersedure? Put a guarded QC in a queen-right colony. Clip one of the queen’s legs. Run two queen colones - mother and daughter together (after a vertical split).
How will it affect the colony If there is a 3-week period of cold weather starting on April 1? Foragers will be unable to fly and may pooh in the hive. The queen will probably reduce her laying, and consequently, there will be fewer bees to take advantage of the spring honey flow in May. Due to congestion in the brood area, the queen moves around less. Hence, the apparent queen mandibular pheromone levels fall. This may prompt the bees to make swarm preparations.
If you clip the wings of a queen, how often do you need to inspect the colony? Inspection can be deferred for 14 days. If the queen is lost in an attempted swarm, the virgins will emerge eight days later. If you want to keep the queen, you need to take action before this.
What are the main approaches to managing varroa? When can they be given/used? What is the treatment period? and wash out, period? There are soft and hard chemicals. Apivar/amitraz constitutes a “hard” artificial compound which requires a 6 to 10-week treatment period and is not temperature dependent. The treatment period is ten weeks if there is plenty of brood. must not be used if there are supers on the hive. It is minimally soluble in wax, so the washout period is zero days. The strips result in the contamination of honey no greater than 0.01mg/kg. Softer thyme-based compounds are non-toxic and require warm weather to be effective. they could taint honey, so in temperate regions, it is only suitable to be given after the main flow. Naturally occurring chemicals like MAQS & Formic Pro can be used at any time of year when the temperature is greater than 10 degrees C. and are the only treatment that can be used in the presence of brood and honey supers. Oxalic acid is effective when trickled or sublimated in a broodless period when no supers are in place. Oxalic acid can be given via vaporisation at any time of year (change in 2021). Biological methods include performing a shook swarm, drone brood destruction, queen caging, and sugar dusting.
What four ways can you think of to get the bees on to fresh frames and foundation? 1. Shook swarm. 2. Bailey comb change. 3. Demaree. 4. Move old frames out of the brood nest to the edge and then replace them.
Three components of a colony’s structure need to be present for a colony to swarm. What are they? queen, flying bees (& youngish bees capable of flying), brood. (and a cause like a block to upward expansion, a honey ceiling).
How does an artificial swarm (AS) prevent swarming? How far apart do the hives need to be? The new hive should be at least one meter, with the entrance facing away. Die-hards move the hive with brood from one side of the hive to the other after a week to shoot more foragers to the home hive. This is unnecessary. An AS prevents swarming by separating the brood from the queen.
Why should Apiguard only be used when the temperature is 15 degrees C or higher? The bees have to be active to spread the thymol around the hive. At temperatures over 25 deg.C, the thymol evaporates more quickly, and the dose can be halved to two 25g doses one week apart instead of 50g two weeks apart. But with the 25gm weekly regimen, it is best to give a third dose, and a fourth dose is optional. But 25g sachets may be unavailable.
Why is it important to see eggs? On appreciating this, how could you manage a colony that has queen cells but you can not find the queen? The queen may or may not be present, but if there are eggs, she was present three days ago. If there are less than 4 QC, this suggests supersedure.
Should the colony be swarming but you can not find the queen, split it into two equal parts. Destroy all the QC in both colonies. Return after 76 hours and inspect. The one with the queen contains eggs. Check both parts for eggs. There may be two queens. Move the boxes so that the queen-right colony loses its flying bees. Reduce the QC to one in the queenless colony. The QC in the queen-right colony will be broken down after the foragers depart. managing varroa.
When it comes to feeding bees, what forms can it take? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each one? Sugar and fondant. Sugar from the supermarket is cheap; it is easily made into a solution. After a while, it develops a scum on the top and ferments. Alcohol gives bees dysentery. Contrast this with Special inverted bee syrup, e.g. Apipasta, which takes ages to develop a scum.
When syrup is first used, the bees can become excited, and this may start robbing in a dearth. So it is best to commence it in the evening. Sugar syrup can be given in small feeders or purpose-made rapid feeders. Special inverted bee fondant preparations are more expensive than Bakers fondant. Bakers is stiffer and more prone to dry out than special fondant. Feeding fondant requires an eke; alternatively, use the PHH rapid feeder. Special sugar preparations are expensive.
One of a beaker’s chief objectives is to maximise bee forager numbers for the summer honey flow. When must these bees be conceived? The main honey flow is usually mid-June to the end of July. It takes 21 days for a bee to emerge and then 21 days on household duties. So, between early May and mid-June.
The colony’s readiness is reflected in the queen’s rate of lay. Sealed brood peaks in mid-June and then falls off. If her rate of lay falls off before mid-May, then the colony is planning to swarm rather than maximise honey production. The queenright portion recovers slowly, so encourage it with some sugar syrup. There are no young bees to look after the brood, so her rate of lay does not bounce back. The other portion has plenty of young bees, which will be fast-tracked to foragers whilst they twiddle their thumbs, awaiting their new queen.
A split is more balanced because the portion with the queen keeps some young bees and brood.
What should you do if you find QC and one or more of Q have emerged? It would be handy if you could work out what sort of queen cell they are and whether the queen is in residence; if they are emergency or supersedure cells, then no problem! Otherwise, If only one Q has emerged, I would look for eggs and the age of the youngest larva, which would give a sense of timing. If the hive was depleted of bees, I would release one queen and destroy all the others. This would prevent casting. If there are multiple empty QC, I would release all the queens and destroy all the QC.
A hive with an overflow of bees into the top box could be managed with a vertical split to pre-empt swarming. How would you do this?
You need a division board (e.g. an EB). A board that is a bit more complicated than a Bailey board with a 10cm upper rear and side entrance, which has a 10cm2 hole covered with mesh and a 10cm2 area of QE that can be occluded by a bit of wood or metal sheet.
This is a good question to get you thinking, although it is too advanced for a beginner. You could do it like a demaree (for short-term effect) or like a proper split. For a Demaree, the queen and the frame she is on go at the home site in a box of comb. Since it is not a swarming situation (although they may be thinking about it), you can leave her with several frames of sealed brood. A vertical split.
Preparing for winter:
First, the colony should be strong enough with a brood box full of bees and, I’m guessing here, six good frames of brood in August. Brood, in mid-August, will become the first winter bees. The bees must be healthy, so smash varroa before they are sealed brood. Preferably with a treatment that can be given in conjunction with feed. API life Var must not be given after feeding and may reduce the bees’ appetite if it is placed in proximity to the feeder. MAQS and Formic Pro may kill the Q and some brood. Apiguard may be effective if the weather is hot, but it reduces the queen’s rate of lay. But whatever the potential adverse effects of these treatments, the harm will be less than being laissez-faire. But, and you will already know who you are, if you have varroa-tolerant bees, watch them carefully.
Before winter, the colony must have adequate stores, enough so that lifting an edge of the hive is very difficult. Give strong sugar syrup or fondant. When syrup is first given, it can cause excitement and precipitate robbing. So start it in the evening and never let the feeder run dry. However, if you start feeding in the daytime, it should be okay unless the syrup is mixed with honey. If the syrup becomes covered with scum, the feeder must be cleaned. The advantage of syrup is that they may draw some comb.
Fondant will dry out unless you are careful.
Woodpecker damage is rare, and they have to learn to do it. Once they start, their offspring will learn too. In these circumstances, protection is essential. Otherwise, they are only likely to attack when the ground is frozen and they can not find ants to eat. Protection ranges from chicken wire to old fertiliser bags or hessian (which hang down to stop the woodpecker from getting a grip). Wire mashes up polyhives, and the sacks do not protect the roof.
The hive must be sound with no cracks and securely strapped down to a sturdy stand.
Provent the entry of mice. Wooden hives have a special entrance reducer.
How could you monitor varroa levels?
Natural varroa drop through the OMF (screened floor) can give a rough indication but is more subjective than objective. Drone sampling is unreliable. Ether rolls are quick and deadly. Whilst a sugar roll is safe for the bees in the short term, it requires more faffing around compared with killing the bees. Treatment must be given when the economic threshold is reached, but it is better given before this. With a roll method, this is exceeded if there are two or more varroa per 100 bee sample. With a large varroa burden and no treatment, your bees will initially look perfectly healthy but are very likely to die in the winter or limp through in a sorry state. Maybe they will survive but fail to build up. If there are varroa on the board in the spring give a further varroa treatment. Most people use a varroa board to monitor the infestation; it is easy and convenient, even if unreliable. Do several tests to see if you are getting consistent results. Alternatively, check the accuracy by performing a sugar roll. If a dusting of varroa is visible on the board by early summer, consider treatment.
If some brood in worker cells develops a domed top, what should you do?
Action! The queen is running out of sperm and becoming a drone layer, so she needs to be replaced - with another queen, a queen cell or kill the queen and let them make themselves a new queen (so long as she is still laying some okay-looking working brood).
Looking for disease in a colony is such a priority that it is recommended to do at least two inspections when you are solely looking for disease. Shake the bees off every frame. Signs of disease
This is a tricky question. A Demaree is performed on 29/4, and the colony swarms on 20/5. On 24/5 there are 4 QC in the top super from which the queens emerged. There is a little worker and drone brood. What has happened?
The queen is in her third year, so her QMP levels are low. They should have swarmed on the fifth day after 29/4. Look back at the brood table from when there was little drone and worker brood. It confirms that the queens started life as eggs about 1/5. There must have been QC I failed to cull on the sixth day after the Demaree, the ones in the supers. So why was there a delay in swarming? QMP levels are very influential in swarm initiation. The virgin must have boosted the hive QMP levels. This sounds like a great explanation. But it is flawed as virgins produce little QMP. So if you know the answer please let me know.
Have you passed the test? great! Read a boring book, attend an introductory course and practical sessions, find an apiary site and do all the other things and you’re off!
Learn at your association apiary
If you want to save the world maybe you should do something else. Why? follow these links:
Honey bees as livestock - Oxford university
Harm to other pollinators - Scientific American